Quidditch Pad Tutorial
Wrist circumference (A)
Widest Part of Forearm circumference (B) – 11.5
Length of forearm from wrist to back of elbow (C) – 11.25
I like to use muslin. It’s cheap, it’s easy to write on, and you can see through it. Plus, you can use it for your cream-colored lining if you don’t feel like investing in sheepskin. To mark, I use tailor’s chalk or water-soluble quilter’s pens.
Draw two rectangles on the muslin, measurement (C) by roughly 1-2″ less than measurement (B), depending on your preference – you can use your measuring tape to estimate how far around your arm you want the pad to extend. Remember you have to do both a left and a right, so only do one at a time. And please, remember to label them.
For the right:
Measure the circumference of your wrist over from the left side of the top edge of one rectangle. Draw a line down about 2 1/2 inches and over to the other edge.
At the bottom end, measure about 2 inches from the left side, and draw a line about 2 1/2 inches down to the edge.
For the left:
Flip these directions (measure from the right for your wrist measurement and the elbow notch)
Draw a line all the way across the top edge at your 2 1/2 inch mark. The two channels here will run horizontally. Measure and mark 1/4″ down from the top edge, then 1 inch down from that line and mark. Measure another 1/4″ down and mark that as well. You can, if you like, add another 1/4″ channel below your 2 1/2″ line, but I don’t.
Then, measure in 1/4″ and mark lines on both side edges. You will need this for your binding. From there, measure from line to line and divide it into a number that makes sense to you. I like 5 or 6. It’s up to you. That is the measurement of your channels. Subtract 1/4″ from it, since each large channel alternates with a small one. On mine, that worked out to be such a tiny fraction over an inch that I decided not to worry about it. Measure that distance over from your 1/4″ line, mark, measure 1/4″, mark, measure your channel width again, mark, etc. until you reach the 1/4″ mark on the other side. The pictures explain it better. Trust me.
If you end up with uneven measurements, make the center one a little wider or a little narrower to make things easier.
Lay out your leather/vinyl, face down, then layer one layer of batting on top of it. Cut both of these slightly larger than your muslin piece to allow for squishing and shifting as you sew. Lay the muslin on top of it. Do not pin, it will leave marks in your vinyl that will be very visible when the thing is finished. If you find you desperately need a way to hold the layers together as you stitch, quilt basting spray works brilliantly, and clothespins around the edges will do in an (ahem) pinch
Stitch all your vertical channels only below the wrist. This is very important, as you will be stuffing it shortly and will want both ends open.
Tip: Stitch from the center outward to minimize shifting and puckering. If you find the muslin is getting warped in shape, you can stitch along one of the horizontal stitching lines to hold the vinyl in one place, but you will probably end up taking those stitches out at the next step, so don’t get too attached.
Cut strips of batting the width of your channels and about 2 inches longer. Fold one end over the blunt end of a chopstick or knitting needle by that extra 2 inches, and jam that puppy into the channel. You can also use poly-fil, but I’ve found batting is less lumpy.
Sew the horizontal lines, including the wrist.
Attach the binding. I found that 1″ strips of buff-colored lambskin work best, but you can also use narrow double fold bias tape for a vegan alternative.
Adult and child size arm guards, shin guards and knees
Attach the straps:
I used 1″ straps cut from the same leather as the pads and 1 1/4″ buckles from Ebay. Straps are held in place with a single rivet, but I found that not to be strong enough for long-term convention wear so I also shored it up with a single line of stitching on the edge of the binding.